MOVING, OUT AND IN
> PLANNING THE MOVE:
Moving with Pets:
No doubt you're aware that moving your pets will
be stressful for them. (After all, they tend to spend most, if not all, of
their time within the confines of your house/yard.) They are certainly
going to be aware of something being up as soon as you begin to pack, if not
before - and the more gradual your move looks to be (i.e., if some furniture
goes first, then boxes, then their bed gets changed...), the more prolonged
their angst. ...And of course they wonder whether they'll be left behind.
Though the unsettling of a move is to be
expected, there are a number of things you can do to ease your pets' transition
to a new house. (After all, the most important thing to them is that it's
still your house together!)
Mostly I'll be referring to cats and dogs in the
following. Other animals, too, are likely to be sensitive to upsetting
moving conditions. Birds, since they're usually caged anyway, are easier
to deal with logistically - but you'll probably need to keep your bird's cage
covered, because they're easily frightened (but make sure it won't get too
heated up in there! - nor too drafty; it's tricky). The most important
thing to keep in mind about transporting small animals such as hamsters and
gerbils is that they need fresh water often, as they get dehydrated much more
readily than larger critters. Check with your local aquarium about steps
to take in moving fish.
(Presumably you've already taken into
consideration that some residential areas - and rentals/condos - prohibit
livestock-type animals, and perhaps certain other "exotic"
animals/aquariums.)
- Stick to what they know: The most
important thing is that you try to keep to your regular routines as much as
possible, before, during, and after the move. The relative stability
in your feeding times, walks, and "hands-on time" will do much to
alleviate a pet's anxieties (as does grooming, if your pet enjoys being
brushed).
Sticking to what they know will also mean keeping aside known water/food
dishes, blankets/rugs/beds, litter boxes, and toys all throughout the moving
process, from packing and moving to moving in. Save the new stuff for after
they've gotten used to their new dwelling space. And don't wash their
bedding until afterward, either (familiar scents are especially important to
cats, but they're comfort to dogs, and probably other critters, as well).
- Communicate with them: Some
people think it silly, but I firmly believe that it's important to actually tell
your pet what's going on, and to reassure them that they'll be going with
you wherever you go. First of all, you need to remember to
reassure them; and, of course, they love to hear you talk to them anytime!
But also, your framing the reassurance into words in your mind allows them
to pick up your meaning even though they might not understand spoken
language per se. (If you aren't convinced that they can understand
your thoughts, I implore you to pretend that they can. Covering
the bases won't hurt you, and your pets may/will appreciate the gesture.)
I suggest that you stick to positive language rather than negative. As
with making affirmations for yourself, one should say, for example,
"I'm feeling good" rather than "I'm not feeling bad"...
because the subconscious scans for the nouns, verbs, and adjectives but
doesn't compute the "not" part. I have a feeling that this
same type of symbol-language is communicated to animals. All I can say
for certain is that when I told my dogs, "Don't worry, you're
fine" during a thunderstorm, it made them even more agitated! - whereas
plain old "I love you" calmed them.
- Pet sitting/confining options: If
you have a friend or pet sitter who sometimes keeps your dog or cat at their
house (or business, if you take your dog to a doggie daycare center), it
would be a great idea to have your animal spend the heavy-packing and the
actual moving-out time with them. Animals pick up on your
stress as well as developing their own from worries about the strange things
that are going on. Too, this timely pet sitting will prevent them from
dashing out the door or hiding where you can't find them on moving day.
If you can't whisk a cat out of the house, as is easier for a dog, you'll
need to confine it to a room (a spare bathroom, or perhaps a room that
you've already packed up and emptied?) during the major moving
activities. (And clearly mark the door as off-limits - movers need to
know, but even family members can forget while preoccupied with other
things.) Where dogs are more likely to stick closer to home like glue
in times of anxiety, cats might well get freaked into leaving their
houses; plus it's not unknown for them to get packed into boxes! - better to
have them where you know they are.
Also on this topic, you'll probably need to confine a cat to the new house
for a few weeks or run the risk of it's fleeing back to it's old home.
...Cats get much more attached to houses than dogs (and most people)
do. (It would be well to get the phone number of the new owners of
your old house, so that you can call to alert them if your cat
escapes.) Many people take cats outside on leashes - and this would be
a good way to introduce them to their new surroundings gradually (but of
course you'd want to introduce them to the leash concept before the
move).
Of course, you must know that many countries require a quarantining period
for imported pets. Even the state of Hawaii has a quarantine
regulation for incoming animals. Such rules often are a basis for
pet-owners' decisions on whether or not to move to a certain area - i.e.,
they wouldn't if they had to quarantine a family pet. This can be a
type of confinement that is cruelly long and lonely (to put into
perspective the other type of at-home confinement - for the sake of the animal
- we've been considering).
- Medical-related: It's not a
bad idea to have your pet given an overall physical exam by your
veterinarian before you travel any distance. If something new shows
up, it's good to be aware of it - especially because stress augments most
conditions of ill-health. If you're crossing state lines or moving to
another country, it may be required that you have a recent
certificate of good health from a veterinarian.
If your pet is on a medication, make sure that you have a good supply on
hand before you leave for a distant location. Ditto for your animal's
favorite food. It's also a good idea to take a gallon or so of your
local water with you to the new location and to gradually ease into using
the new tap water as drinking water for your pet - both for the sake of
taste and the possibility (rather common) of a sensitivity to something in
the new water (you really don't want your pet to get the runs as soon as you
move in, I know!).
Be sure to get copies of your animal's veterinary records to take along with
you. Yes, you can have your vet mail records to your new vet... and
that would be fine if you've gotten a referral in advance to a new
veterinarian. But what if your pet has a problem en route or soon
after you arrive? - it's much safer to take the records along with you in
the early-days supplies if you haven't had them transferred already.
You might also want to talk to your vet about employing some mild sedation
for your animal for during your move (to be used only if needed).
You'll also have a first-aid kit along, won't you?
- Identification: This is something
most people seem not to think of, but it would be a good idea to take, and
keep with you in the move, recent photos of your pets. If an animal
gets lost anywhere along the way in the moving process, you'll want to be
able to quickly put together a "lost pet" flier to show and post.
It would also be best to have new pet tags made up before you leave for your
new home, with your new contact info. Birds can possibly be tagged
with leg bands. Tags for cats, too, aren't unheard of - and if a cat
does get out and doesn't come back inside, a tag might return it to
you. (You can get the kind of collar that breaks away if caught on
something, so the animal can't choke.)
If you don't have a cell phone, you could even
make your own tags to use at different points along the route... Say
it's going to be taking you a few days to drive across country. If you
know where you'll be staying at each stop, you could switch tags each day so
that the contact phone number of the motel is on the right one for the end
of that day. Easily make temporary tags out of card stock, sandwiching
the pre-printed cut-out circle between pieces of wide tape or self-adhesive
shelf paper. A traveling animal could get lost anywhere a door
is opened inopportunely... It's worth it to have a way to keep track
of who might be trying to alert you to a found pet.
- Shipping pets: I hope you don't
have to do this (you can imagine how much more stressful this separation and
outlandish goings-on must be for an animal)... But if you must send a
pet somewhere by plane, please make sure it's a direct flight. Not
only will it likely shorten the overall travel time, but it should also
ensure that the critter doesn't get stuck outside in the heat, cold, and/or
rain. You can also usually pay extra for an airline employee to
personally shuttle your pet from counter to pick-up area (and we'd like to
be able to assume that an animal-lover would volunteer for this
task!). Before you decide about air shipment, though, please read this
informative page from the Humane Society of the United States: http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/caring_for_pets_when_you_travel/
traveling_by_air_with_pets/
I suppose you know that a moving company can't ship a pet with the
furniture. (The reason we only discuss air shipment and car travel is
that only assistance dogs are allowed on most trains, ships, and buses - and
not without their person!) Possibly you'd be able to find a friend or
a business that will transport a pet some distance... and this could be
better than the far more impersonal, and harrying, flight option (think of
the noise, and the vibration, and the darkness, and the fumes -
yikes!). Hope it's a friend! (Remember, your pet would rather be
cramped and be with it's family rather than feel abandoned.)
However you convey your critter, if you're using a carrier that's new to the
animal, it's a good idea to get it used to it a few days, or even weeks,
ahead of time. Let it be a playing/sleeping area, with toys and
perhaps favorite blankets (or a disposable article of your clothing)
inside.
- Moving by car: Probably you'll be
taking your animals yourself in the car with you. If your critters are
used to traveling in the car, this won't be bad - unless they only associate
the car with going to the vet! This is more often the case with a
cat... in which case, you might consider making several car excursions
around town well before the move, with the cat in a cat carrier but not
going to the vet. (Even if your cat is one of the few who is used to
being in the car outside of a carrier, it's not a good idea to let them be
loose during a move... I know people who have lost animals that way
when the cat shot out of the car and away.)
If you haven't experienced a long trip with them before, I might mention
that it's normal for a pet not to want to eat or drink (or defecate, even)
until they're "home" - which can be a problem! (So make sure
that they have a new spot that's as home-like as possible when you get to
the other end - even if it means shutting them in the car or in a second
bathroom while the moving in is going on.)
Be sure that your dog gets a good walk just before you head out - and gets
leash-walked at least minimally during the trip, if it's long. Always
keep your dog on a leash at all times (i.e., attach the leash before
letting it out of the car) during your stops. (I've seen a tragic
result of highway travelers' misplaced belief in a dog's coming on command -
please don't risk lifelong nightmares through inattention to this critical
detail.)
Here's a good webpage on Animal-Friendly
Hotel Accommodations
- On arrival: When you arrive
at the new home, set up a space for your pets right away. (It's best
to have given thought to this in advance so that you don't have to change it
soon after.) Make sure that you put food and water out soon - but
don't be worried if your pet doesn't want to partake right away; even if
not, it will be glad that the bar is open! (However,
veterinarians report that cats who don't eat for just a few days can develop
severe liver problems, so keep an eye on the food dish. This would be
one of those reasons why you'll be happier getting set up with a new
veterinarian soon.)
Both cats and dogs need to be able to explore their new environment (though,
as mentioned above, a cat's desire to return to the old house could be
stronger than the desire to acquaint itself with a new one, at first).
An ambulatory dog will be delighted to discover what there is to discover in
its new yard, and will no doubt want to walk around the neighborhood as soon
as possible. ...And you'll want to make sure that it learns the
neighborhood so that it can find its way back home if it gets loose and
lost. (Also, it's probably important for you to allow your dog to mark
its new territory. ...Worry about what the neighbors think later on, during
less critical walks.)
Speaking of marking, one reason cats scratch is to mark territory via
scenting glands in their paws. ...So more of this might be expected to take
place in a new home. Be sure you have a scratching post or pad on hand
(or old furniture you were planning to dump later on!).
Be sure to look into the dog licensing necessities soon after you move to a
new locale. You'd hate to have your dog get loose and end up in the
pound and have to pay a fine!
If you're used to woodsy rambles with your dog, and you're moving into a
citified area, be sure to pack some plastic bags along with you on your
walks! (Stick your hand inside the bag as though it were a glove, pick
up the poop and bag it, and take it to the trash can. Your neighbors
will have a good impression of you from the start.)
This is the best information I've found on details about pet shipping, car
travel, and hotel stays (plus a directory of offices to contact in each of the
U.S. states for animal regulations): http://www.atlasworldgroup.com/howto/pets/
Legalities you may need to be aware
of in moving pets:
There are differing state regulations on moving
animals across state lines. To be on the safe side, contact the State Department
of Animal Husbandry, State Veterinarian, or whatever the authority may be called
in the state you're moving to.
Some of the requirements may be:
- Rabies vaccines for dogs or cats (what
constitutes "current" may be different in another state).
- Interstate health certificates for various
kinds of pets
- "Entry permits" for some pets in
some states
- Possible border inspections
- And Hawaii requires that cats and dogs be
quarantined for 120 days on arrival (and you'll need to know how to make the
arrangements for this)
If you need your veterinarian to provide
documentation for any of these prospects, be sure to get her/him involved at
least a month in advance of your move. (And note that in some cases, the
validity of a permit lasts only a certain amount of time - so you might not be
able to act too much in advance.)
And, of course, you'll want to be aware of local
city or county, subdivision or co-op housing group, regulations as to types and
numbers of pets allowed, how they must be controlled, and on any licensing
required.
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